The Mysterious Madeira, The Submerged Cork, And The Rediscovery Of Christmas Magic

Vinted on December 13, 2012 binned in crowd pleaser wines

I’d love to kick this post off by somehow linking Madeira to the holidays, but that would be disingenuous of me; the truth is that I love the fortified Portuguese (mostly) dessert wine, and drink it pretty much any chance I get to wrap my grubby little hands around a bottle of the stuff.

For a guy like me, discovering a forgotten bottle of Madeira in a liquor cabinet of one’s house is kind of like a pothead finding a stash of Sativas weed and a stack of previously-unreleased, high-quality Grateful Dead live bootleg recordings in one of their bedroom dresser drawers. And so, with eyes wider than a nine-year-old’s on Christmas morning, I found myself face to face with (what I think was – more on that in a minute or two) either a 1967 or 1970  Manuel de Sousa Herdeiros Verdelho Madeira.

How I got to the confines of the liquor cabinet in the first place: Last week, Mrs. Dudette had cooked up a fine pasta-and-sausage meal for us; so fine that our little Dudettelete, for whom dinner typically lasts something like fourteen hours, had cleaned her plate in record time. I mentioned that I’d just received a sample shipment of spirits, and Mrs. Dudette exclaimed that she had never once had good quality Scotch. Much “egads!” ensued (okay, all the “egads!” were mine) and I sprinted to the long-neglected liquor cabinet (you’ve got to move a small toy store’s worth of toddler stuff to get at it now), with the intention of finding an equally long-neglected, unopened bottle of The Macallan 12 Year Old Single Malt.

I knew The Macallan was in there. I did not  know that the Manuel de Sousa Herdeiros Verdelho Madeira was in there. Queue the wide-eyed wonderment…

When I got back to the dinner table, complete with Verdelho and sh*t-eating grin, my daughter caught on quickly to said wonderment.

“Where did it come from, Daddy?” she asked.

“I don’t know sweetheart,” I answered, “I forget who gave this to us, it must have been a gift, and must happened many years ago, before you were born.”

“Daddy! It was Christmas Magic!” she retorted with toddler excitement, as if she’d grasped something truly profound. “The Elf on the Shelf must have brought it to you!”

Seems I owe the elf (who is even smaller than I am – photog proof included herein). Big time.

So now we not only know that Madeira is more bad-ass than Iron Man, and that it can produce wines that still taste flamboyant when they’re over one hundred years young, but we also know that it apparently has connections to North Polean magic, courtesy of Saint Nicholas (and elves). Damn, is there anything that this stuff can’t do? Next thing we know, we’ll see headlines about how Madeira saved entire families, including pets and goldfish, from collapsing buildings.

I can for sure tell you that it survives a bad case of cork comprise, though.

After opening the bottle and declaring it sound, we drank (a lot) of it, I put the closure (visible in fairly poor shape) back in the bottle, like a doofus. Trying to pop the top off later for another pour easily separated cork from stopper, at which point we watched the separated piece of cork slide slowly but surely down the large neck of the bottle and into a bath of old Manuel de Sousa Herdeiros Verdelho Madeira. DOH!

Thankfully Madeira is mostly indestructible.  It’s already been exposed to light, heat, and air. More air isn’t going to do much to it; and so I emptied the entire contents (sans large floating cork bits) into a tall beer glass, then destroyed the large chunks of cork still left in the bottle (this can be done by allowing the cork to get part of the way back up the neck, and then using knives and corkscrews to gently rip the rest of the destabilized cork apart). Rinse the bottle, use a funnel and strainer to get the wine back into the bottle (minus sediment and smaller cork bits), and we are back in business. I wouldn’t have dared try that with any other type of wine if it had seen anywhere near the same kind of age – but Madeira is Madeira. It can handle it. It has bad-ass written into its DNA.

As for how it tasted (and still tastes… well, what’s left of it, anyway)…

Crowd Pleaser?? Manuel de Sousa Herdeiros Verdelho Madeira (Madeira)
Price: Unknown
Rating: Nuttabulous

As you’ll see from the photos, it’s difficult to discern when this bottle was produced, and one of the only bottles on the market these days is from 1900 and will set you back nearly $700. Two dates are visible on the paper surrounding the opening of the bottle, one from September `67 (assuming that’s 1967, and a harvest date?) and one from November 1970 (Bottling date, perhaps?). There is a price ($16) printed on that same strip of paper at the end of the neck (also pictured), assuming that was the release price. I’ve no idea from whence this bottle came, how long we’ve had it, or how it came to be in our possession; when this kind of thing happens, you did what I did when Mrs. Dudette told me that she loved me: you shut up, accept it and silently thank the Universe.

A hint of caramel, more than a hint of toast, wood and Oloroso Sherry, and more than anything else a fine nuttiness that I think would remind most people of walnut shells, though just about any nut shell will do here. I’m not going to say that it was profound, because it wasn’t; but it was certainly an extremely solid Verdehlo, sitting just left of center on the spectrum of nutty-to-sweet, and possessing still some dried fruits and powerful life force. It’s a tough combination to say No to, basically. We woke it from its long slumber, but upon awakening it was just as amicable as the day it settled down for a long nap, a day that probably predates my existence on this planet.

By the way, I didn’t give any Madeira to the Elf that night (he’s a teetotaler from what I understand), but I might have (after several glasses of the stuff, anyway) caught a twinkle coming from his beady little eyes.

So queue up ELP’s Father Christmas, that old Burl Ives holiday tune and any other Christmas schlep that I used to think was corny… because right now, brothers and sisters, so long as that Mysterious Madeira is flowing… right now, I believe…!

Cheers!

10

 

 

    Comments

  • Niklas Jorgensen


    Hi Joe,

    Love the post!

    First of all, this is a producer not existing anymore. I have seen only but a few Manoel de Sousa wines and the most well-known is their 1900 Boal. I have never seen it outside Madeira so maybe you have any relatives visitig the island many years ago, that is at least 15-20 years back in time?

    The top label saying J.N.V. stands for Junta Nacional Vinhos. As you probably know, Portugal (and Madeira) was governed by the junta from the late 1930s to 1974. JNV was the control institute for wine and was replaced by IVM (today's Madeira Wine Institute) in 1980. The $ symbol is indicating tax. When this label was put there, to assure that the wine was bottled in Madeira, Portugal had Escudos as currency. They used the $ sign, with either one or two lines through the s. Normally it was two lines but I guess typewriters couldn't handle that. So, $16 has nothing to do with the US price.

    On the top of the stopper cork you see two decrees; Decretos-Leis 74 966/27/9/67 & Decretos-Leis 550/70 de 12/11/70. These are the decrees stipulating the Madeira production back then. Put forward by the island government, approved by the constitution in mainland Portugal.

    I would say you have the non-vintage Verdelho from Manoel de Sousa. A blend simply. Age is tough to say but I can't imagine it would be much older than a 10 YO at bottling. Then of course, stuff happens in the bottle along the way, especially when forgotten about as in your case ;-)

    Stopper cork indicates a younger wine, still JNV on the top label so bottled and approved before 1980. I would say it's from the 70s. The one I bought in Madeira a couple of years ago, was similar to yours (with the exception of no grape indication). There was some relationship between the embroidery Patricio and Gouveia Lda and de Sousa. Maybe they or the institute can shed some light on it should you ever contact any of the two!

    Great to spot yet a Madeira geek!

    All the best,

    Niklas

    • 1WineDude


      Niklas – THANK YOU!!! I do believe that you've solved the mystery, apart from how the hell I got the bottle, of course :-). I really appreciate you chiming in with that excellent explanation. I'm guessing 70s as well. Add you say, clearly not a vintage, and not a profound bottling by any stretch, but still a lovely surprise for me :-). Cheers!

  • Jason Whiteside


    I gave you that bottle, dude. I forget why ( you must have done something to deserve it, but I can't remember what that could have been). I have a few other bottles from that set still in the basement. I got it from some dead guy's wife.

    Thanks for saving it to drink with me,
    JW

    • 1WineDude


      Jason – really? Dude, I don't think I'd have stuck that into the liquor cab though… And you only might resemble an elf… F**k, I'm getting old… Anyway, plenty left to share with you the next time you're here, and you have some '63 Port with you… ;-)

  • MyrddinGwin


    Dude, have you tried the 2002 Dun Bheagan Islay Single Malt? I realise your website is titled 1WineDude rather than 1WhiskyDude, but if you have had the opportunity to try it, what did you think of it?
    Also, one of many things I wish that liquor stores close to me stocked a wider variety of would be Madeira. So far, my experiences of it have been too far and few between. One day, though…

    • 1WineDude


      MyrddinGwin- I've not had the pleasure yet, I'm afraid! Regarding Madeira, I couldn't agree more; and what I've found is that unless you're on the island itself, there are really almost no “deals” to be had on the stuff. In fact, I bought some in Portugal and the entire was thinking that I was only saving a few percent versus what I'd have paid for it in the States!

      • MyrddinGwin


        The Dun Bheagan Islay was a pretty decent example of Islay Scotch, I thought. It was pretty intensely smoky and peaty, and tasted like a cooler version of an arctic moss fire, but I did like it; it showed the dominant character of most Islay Scotch Whiskies I've tried before, and was pretty close to affordable for a Scotch (about $50). It's pretty intensely smoky and peaty, though, so it's probably not good for people who prefer milder, more delicate sensations in their Scotch.

        • 1WineDude


          MyrddinGwin – Yeah, that's Islay for you, gotta know what you're signing up for before you plunk the cash down for those!

  • Rob


    I love how you can bash Madeira around and it survives – so cool. I had the Rare Wine Company's Malmsey Special Reserve recently, but it wasn't for dessert – it was paired with some veal sweetbreads and andouille sausage. It was really tasty, and such a gutsy pairing.

    • 1WineDude


      Rob – gutsy. Glad that worked out. :-)

The Fine Print

This site is licensed under Creative Commons. Content may be used for non-commercial use only; no modifications allowed; attribution required in the form of a statement "originally published by 1WineDude" with a link back to the original posting.

Play nice! Code of Ethics and Privacy.

Contact: joe (at) 1winedude (dot) com

Google+

Labels

Vintage

Find