Archive for November, 2013
[ Editor’s note: the following screed is nearly 1500 words long. The Cliff Notes version, for those who are in a hurry: be very careful about where you take your advice regarding wine and social media, lest you miss out on worthwhile authoritative voices/resources (as a consumer) or miss opportunities to build brand awareness and acquire customers (as a producer). ]
There’s no delicate way to breach this topic, and so I’m going to risk pissing off a lot of people by jumping right in and starting it this way:
From whom should you take your social media advice? Choose one of the options below:
1) Someone who ran Internet web hosting for some of the most successful brands in the history of social media (including Skittles, Snickers and M&Ms), who makes $0.00 from social media consulting, and who bootstrapped his way from total unknown to authoritative in the wine space completely via online channels,
2) A traditional media outlet source that has little or no experience operating in social media channels, has a vested fiscal interest (advertising) in pushing wine brands away from inexpensive social media channels and into (more expensive) print advertising spending, and who publicly decries social media / blogs while at the same time advertises on those online channels and repeatedly asks those same blogs it decries to cover its events and press releases?
Hello… Paging Ralph Nader…!
The answer seems ludicrously straightforward, and yet I regularly watch wine brands go with #2, potentially to the detriment of their long term bottom lines. And yes, for the record, I’m the guy in the first example above, but that’s not central to the point – you could substitute anyone in the #1 slot with both social media and wine experience, like Paul Mabray of Vintank, for example. The point is that wine brands accord far, far, far too much weight to the social media prognostications and pontifications of OpEd pieces, newsletter introductions, and blog posts from staff members of traditional wine media. These media folks are often fantastic tasters, great writers, and immensely intelligent people who routinely, somehow, manage to make themselves sound like complete idiots by holding a bully pulpit sermon on topics about which they know almost nothing. It’s like eighty year old men talking about teenage girls’ high school fashions, or ten year old boys talking about prostate health or political voting strategies.
Seriously, people, this is getting embarrassing…
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- 09 Morlanda Crianca Red (Priorat): Flexes 6-pack abs, kicks other big red wines into a bottomless pit, screams "THIS IS PRIORAT!!!!" $48 A- >>find this wine<<
- 10 Viticultors del Priorat Mas de Subira (Priorat): Muscular, dark red fruits holding back chained, feral, gnarling wild animals. $30 B+ >>find this wine<<
- 11 Garbo Negre (Montsant): Rustic Syrah beats up on little cousin Merlot, but aunt Tempranillo scolds them all back into good behavior $19 B >>find this wine<<
- 11 Valdubon Cosecha (Ribera del Duero): Tart, friendly & simple Tempranillo, transmogrified into takeout sweet and sour pork form. $15 B- >>find this wine<<
- 09 Stolo Family Vineyards Anno di Lucas Syrah (San Luis Obispo County): In Robert Plant voice, "does anybody remember… Pepper?!?" $25 B+ >>find this wine<<
- 09 Stolo Family Vineyards Anno di Lucas Pinot Noir (San Luis Obispo County): These boots are made for… collecting funky earth. $35 B >>find this wine<<
- 09 Stolo Family Vineyards Anno di Lucas Chardonnay (San Luis Obispo County): Life's a preach, & then… hey is it getting hot in here? $21 B >>find this wine<<
- 10 Chateau Hanteillan Haut-Medoc (Haut-Medoc): Saddling up and delivering a Jack Palance-style glare-and-ass-kicking combination. $23 B+ >>find this wine<<
- 10 Marc Mondavi's The Divining Rod Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley): What it's flashing under that oak cloak is kinda impressive. $19 B >>find this wine<<
- 10 Marc Mondavi's The Divining Rod Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands): Talks peaches, melons & bread, but secretly wants to be a lemon $19 B >>find this wine<<
- 10 Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer Les Elements (Alsace): Less sweet-nothings-in-ear whisperer & more sweet-tongue-in-ear sticker. $25 B+ >>find this wine<<
- 10 Pertinace Nebbiolo (Langue): It's plenty of Funky, but it could use a lot more of the Cold Medina; or just a lot less of the Funky. $18 B >>find this wine<<
By now, many of you reading this will have come across a handful of articles on the Global Interwebs proffering the idea that the current style of high-scoring, high-end fine wines (prominently oaky, complex, high on the alcohol and low on the acidity) will always reign supreme in fine wine sales, and that it’s only a matter of time before Millennial consumers “grow up” and stop buying higher acid, inexpensive imports and trade up to the “real” stuff.
Many of these arguments are well-written and intelligently presented. But to me, they don’t read like the Queen’s English; they look more like this: “Blah blah, blah-blah-blah, BLAH-BLAH!!!”
Some of the crystal ball gazing has been done by those with a vested interest in prolonging the reign of the current style of high-scoring, high-end fine wines, but I don’t really have any issue with that potential conflict of interest. Also, I’m willing to ignore the fact that one of the key pillars of their arguments – that an entire generation will “grow up” to fundamentally change how they interact with brands – has no previous viable example in the entire history of luxury goods consumption on planet Earth.
The real nail in the coffin of these arguments is that no data are ever offered in support of them.
Meanwhile, we have examples of exactly the opposite happening; younger consumers buying fresher, higher acid wines, because that’s what they can afford and therefore it’s the style on which they’re cutting their wine loving teeth, informing their future purchases and tastes from this point onward.
What examples, you ask? How about roughly eight million bottles, is that a good enough example for you?
8 million is the annual bottle production of Mednoza’s Luigi Bosca, a producer I visited during my stint earlier this year judging the 2013 Argentina Wine Awards. The results of that visit – aside from yielding a handful of tasty recommendations for you (more on those in a few minutes) – underscored nearly every aspect of the speeches I and my fellow judges gave to the Argentine winemaking community during the AWAs, and yielded one of the most telling illustrations of the changing tastes of younger wine consumers I’ve yet encountered…
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Okay… so… we stirred the pot a bit with last week’s lament on the state of wine writing. To the tune of a couple of hundred overall reactions in comments, emails, and social media.
One of the emails I received was from wine biz alumnus Les Hubbard. Les had happened to read that post, and almost simultaneously (while doing some house cleaning in his files) stumbled upon something nearly thirty years old that he thought was related to the topic of wine writing, and what we can hope to achieve from it (if not being able to achieve green-tinged paper with drawings of previous U.S. presidents on them).
In that email, Les recounted the main themes from a talk on wine writing given by John Frederick Walker in November of 1985 (I would’ve been all of thirteen at that time, and so more qualified to write about orange juice…).
Walker’s themes are eerily resonant today; in fact, they sound as if they could’ve been written last week, let alone twenty-eight years ago. Les gave me permission to share his email, for which I’m quite grateful; I desperately wanted to share them with the 1WD readership, because they feel so pertinent to the craft of wine writing, and because they comprise a fairly awesome exclamation point of sorts to last week’s discussion in the comments section about what it means to be a (underemployed) wine writer.
And so, courtesy of Les, here are Hubbard’s own words paraphrasing what I would consider some of the key points that are still at the heart of good wine scribing, as delivered back in the `80s. So dust off your Jams, Swatches, big-rimmed glasses, skinny ties and Galaga-playing skills and join us for a trip in the dialectical Way Back Machine…
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