Back in October (yeah, yeah, I know, I KNOW…) I was invited to attend a media lunch at Philly’s excellent Le Virtù, focusing on the diversity of wines from Italy’s Abruzzo region.
So of course I said no, thanks.
JK. I wasn’t about to turn down something like that so close to my own (current) backyard.
While munching and sipping (and spitting), us attendees were treated to an overview of the Abruzzo region led by Angelo Secolo, an Italian wine ambassador for VinItaly, during which we got some insights into the current state of wine production affairs in the area.
Though it borders the central portion of the country, Abruzzo considers itself a southern Italian region in terms of climate, geography, culture, and pretty much everything else. Despite the area being difficult to farm generally (65% of it is technically mountainous, with only about 1% being flat land), wine has been grown and produced there since Roman times, with most vines growing towards the east where the land start to level off (in mountainous terms, anyway). The soils are more diverse than you might expect—there’s gravel, sand, and clay in the south, moving to more marl and calcareous soils in the northeast (nearer the sea).
There are 32,000 hectares of vines, farmed by about 6,000 growers, with 250 wineries making 150 million bottles per year. 65% of that production gets exported (18% of that to the USA), hence the reason for the media outreach, I suspect!
We tasted through six wines, and I was struck by just how friggin’ easy these wines are to like (as you’ll notice below when the Crowd Pleaser wine badge shows up for what seems like seven billion consecutive times)…
2024 Tenuta Talamonti Pecorino d’Abruzzo Colle Corviano, $NA
Hand-harvested and aged in stainless steel, this white downright DARES you not to like it. White peach pulp, yellow apple, pear, jasmine, lemon and pineapple hints and flavors… It’s like a beach day in a glass, and comes with the nervy acidity to provide the refreshment you’ll need after sunbathing.
2024 Torre Zambra ‘Poggio Salaia’ Pecorino Terre di Chieti, Abruzzo, $18
Aged on fine lees in stainless steel tanks for 2 months, this one presents as very herbal and grassy at first, with a note reminiscent of pine, then moves to white blossoms, melon, and lychee. The palate stays to true to that herbal nose, combined with lots of lemon pith, grapefruit, and minerality on a surprisingly long finish.
2024 Azienda Tilli ‘Lupus’ Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, $NA
Floral and lightly herbal on the nose, this becomes an aromatic bounty very quickly in the glass, with green apple, pear, and citrus. It’s super fresh in the mouth, flirting with notes of almonds and saline. Irresistible, and a total delight with appetizers.
2023 Cantina Valle Tritana Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $19
What a fun, plummy, juicy delight. Violets and cherries usher it in, followed by a palate that’s as easy going of an entry as you’re likely to find. It gets meaty towards the finish, but stays a plum-packed party the entire time.
2022 Cantina Zaccagnini ‘Dal Tralcetto’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $25
Aged on the lees in stainless steel, this red emphasizes juicy black cherry fruit. There are a lot of other things happening, though—like dried herbs, pepper spices, and black raspberry. It’s soft in the mouth, with bits of mineral tension and tobacco among the plush blue, red, and black fruit flavors.
2021 Masciarelli Marina Cvetic ‘Iskra’ Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, $33
It’s never a bad time when I get reacquainted with this label. Spending 12 months in first-passage French oak barriques, this `21 bottling is as spicy, plummy, and floral as ever. The blueberry and blackberry fruits are rich, and complemented by dried violet notes. The palate is seductive: plush, but sporting a linear structure that carries great balance despite its (very) full body.
Cheers!