Over the years since my last visit to Portugal’s Alentejo region in 2019, I’ve sparingly mentioned on these virtual pages the wines of Quinta da Fonte Souto, Symington’s first property outside of the Douro (acquired in 2017), a site that drew them in due to its high (by Alto Alentejo standards) elevation of 500 meters above sea level.
During that visit, I was impressed by how well their wines married the freshness allowed by the higher elevation, with the textbook Alentejo fruitiness produced by the warmer climes and abundant sunshine of the region (even if, during that visit, it was uncharacteristically pissing rain and creating, as they say, “fine weather for ducks.”).
Damn, I thought then, and every time since when they have sent me samples, I love these wines.
So… how in the ever-lovin’ f*ck have I not featured them here before?!??
Folks, today we need to rectify that oversight, tout suite.
Quinta da Fonte Souto’s wines are made by Charles Symington, Pedro Correia, and José Daniel Soares. I often cite (to bored friends and family) these wines as some of the most exciting in all of Portugal, and talk them up as a bellwether for seeking out higher elevation vineyard sites in warmer regions to help mitigate the impacts of climate change, etc. The vines are planted on 207 hectares, with many of them being described as “mature” and naturally lower-yielding. And the wines have been consistently, naturally delicious…
2023 Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco, Alentejo, $32
This white is a blend of hand-harvested Arinto and Verdelho, with 60% being matured on the lees in 500-liter oak barrels, and the final blend aged nine months in both new and used French and European oak (with a smattering sitting in stainless steel vats). 2023 saw one of the site’s earliest harvests ever, but a long one that extended nearly two months. The wine kicks off with very ripe citrus, stone fruit accents, dried flower petal notes, and hints of brioche. The palate is drop-dead gorgeous in its fruity richness, balanced extremely well with minerality and freshness (presumably thanks to the altitude of Portalegre’s Serra de São Mamede). The finish leaves a lingering, heady note like a lover’s perfume on your pillow the day after.
2020 Quinta da Fonte Souto Tinto, Alentejo, $32
Alicante Bouschet, Alfrocheiro, Syrah, and Touriga Nacional make up this red, aged half in used 400-liter French oak for eight months (the AB and Alfrocheiro constitute the meat of the blend). This was also a two-month long harvest, but a much more challenging one that they describe as the most difficult since their inaugural 2017 harvest. The stress and hard work paid off, though. The wine opens with violets, bright and fleshy plums, sea salt, and leather. It’s expressive and fruity, but well-framed on the palate to carry the weight of its fuller body profile. Black and blue berries and hints of game weave in and out. A versatile option for pairing with meat, including anything from a more formal steak dinner to backyard BBQ.
Cheers!