Many thanks to the Cosimo crew for providing “Wine Madness” this weekend. We tasted several excellent wines, a few standouts are worth mentioning in more detail:
Linne Calodo Rising Tides 2004 - A massive wine, nearly 16% alcohol... which normally would've made me steer way clear of this bottle, but it had tannin structure and fruit to match and was really well-balanced.
Trimbach Reserve Personnelle Pinot Gris 1999 Alsace - Usually an inexpensive producer, you cannot go wrong with these guys (especially if you like wine that tastes like it was filtered over purified gravel).
Stags Leap Wine Cellars Fay 1998 - The upstart CA boys that beat the French and out CA cab. on the map. Lots of secondary aromas going on with this one now, a stark contrast to the...
Opus One 1998 - which was full of fruit and smooth as silk... and they said `98 was a bad year...
Lynch Bages 1988 - One of the smokiest (and enjoyable) wines I've ever tasted... somehow, it got even smokier in the glass over the span of 2 hours... not sure how that happened (maybe I should have paid more attention in Chemistry class).
All in all, a great night hanging out with some great folks and eating some great food. Hopefully we’ll make this a regular occurrence!
Those of you interested in both art AND wine can head out to NYC between now and March 13 to take in the Mouton Rothschild wine label exhibit at Sotheby’s. I traveled to NYC to check it out this past weekend as a bit of an early birthday gift.
For those who are not students of the drama that is the Bordeaux wine region of France: Chateau Mouton Rothschild is considered one of the finest wine estates in France for producing Bordeaux style, Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines.
It has a history of ‘firsts’ , most notably being the first (and to date only) chateau to have its rank elevated from “Second Growth” (bestowed in 1855) to “First Growth” status (in 1973). It was also the first Bord’x chateau to produce a Napa-valley collaborative wine (Opus One, with Robert Mondavi), and the first to commission and/or feature major artists’ work on its wine labels (hence the exhibit), a tradition that continues to this day (the most recent 2004 vintage featuring a watercolor by Prince Charles).
As for their wines, most have measured up to the fine works of art adorning their labels, most notably the 1945 and 1982 vintages, both considered to be among the best wines ever produced (in the history of modern wine making, that is).
The exhibit is not lengthy and if you are detailed-oriented it may take you an hour max to go through it – but the combination of fine modern art and very fine wine is well worth the diversion if you’re NYC-bound soon. And to top it all off, if you’re also among the world’s millionaires you can head over to one of the many NYC wine shops afterwards and celebrate your cultured self with a bottle of Harlan Estate (some vintages we found for the low, low price of… $1200 per bottle :-).
So… what does a 40 year old wine taste like?
This past New Year’s Eve, Ker & I stopped by Cosimo to grab a glass of bubbly with Jason (the Wine Director). After a bit, Jason paused during our conversation at the bar and gave me that look – the look that serious only wine geeks give each other when they have SSS (some serious [email protected]*t.
It’s the “let me show you what we’ve got in the decanter, but don’t tell anyone else, man” look.
They had cracked open a bottle of 1967 Chateau Latour. I’d never had a 40 year old wine before, and Anthony (the venerable Cosimo proprietor) was keen, so Ker & I had a taste. The experience further convinced me of what I’ve been saying for a long time now: Most people shouldn’t age wine.
Now, I am NOT saying that I did not like this wine (I loved it actually); and I’m not saying the wine wasn’t aged / stored perfectly (it was). What I am saying is that most people in the U.S. would fine this wine “interesting” (i.e., “not worth the price tag”).
Why? Because our tastes in this country are like our wars: Big. Bold. In-yo-FACE!
My tasting notes on this wine read like a textbook definition of classic “claret” for the Brits, which is to say that it looks the list of most nuclear family’s kitchen garbage bag contents: cigar, black nuts, pencil shavings, game, “slim jim,” earth (aka ‘dirt’).
I don’t know too many people that would plunk down the serious cash it requires to purchase aged first growth Bordeaux after seeing that list. It wouldn’t be enough to add that this is all normal stuff for a well-aged Bordeaux, or to talk about everything that was sooooo right with this wine (like the delicate tannins and fruit notes on the finish, which was long and strong and lasted until about 4PM the next day I think), or how the integration of all the components showed that this wine aged so beautifully. Most folks in the States simply would not have the patience to wait 40 years for a wine to reach peak maturity anyway – and they might not be happy with the results if they did anyway. Because our tastes are different from that of the Brits.
So who’s right – us, or the Brits?
We’re both right.
The moral of the story: don’t sweat aging / storage of your wine too much. 98% of it will not benefit from aging anyway, and you’ll enjoy it better now while it’s fresh, fruity, and in your face. If you decide you like red wine and want to develop your palate, start experimenting and aging to find out the balance YOU like best between big fruit and lots of tannin vs. the earthy, meaty flavors that will develop with aging.
There’s no right wine answer on aging – apart from your preference. And you’ll only learn your preference after experimenting (not exactly a chore considering all of the great wine to be had out there!).
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