Don’t Bogart That Sip: Should Sommeliers Taste Your Wine Purchase?

Vinted on July 12, 2010 binned in commentary

Last week, I was quoted in a very interesting article by Eric Asimov in the New York Times, based on a conversation that Eric and I had about restaurant sommeliers taking a small sip of their customers’ wines to ensure that they are sound prior to being served.

Many of you out there (at least, the ones who sent me all of the e-mail) were surprised that I hadn’t encountered the practice before.  Based on those e-mails (the ones in which I wasn’t called an idiot, anyway), the practice seems much more common for patrons in Europe than for those of us here Stateside.

Also, for those readers I should note that I’m a born-and-bred Mid-Atlantic U.S. boy, which means I’m naturally suspicious and pissed off until you do something nice for me, after which I’m convinced that it’s a ruse plotted to rip me off somehow and I’m really pissed-off at you.

Anyway, my quotes were (of course) part of a longer conversation that Eric understandably didn’t include in full in the article; so I thought the topic worth revisiting so I could expand a bit on the view I represented in that conversation…

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Weekly Twitter Wine Mini-Reviews Round-up for 2010-07-10

Vinted on July 10, 2010 binned in wine mini-reviews
  • 08 Boutari Kallisti Reserve (Santorini): Smokey, hazlenut vanilla goodness with an acid blast to rock your next scallop dinner. €15 B+ #
  • 06 Boutari Vinsanto (Santorini): A bit too cloying & unbalanced even for this sweet tooth, but those who dig caramel syrup will enjoy €17 B- #
  • 09 Boutari Assyrtiko (Santorini): A fair amount of heft, citrus, & astringency. And by "fair amount," I really mean "maybe too much." €9 C+ #
  • 02 Boutari Kallisti Reserve (Santorini): Like an unsweetened honey-lemon cookie w/ oregano sprinkled on top. But in a totally good way. B+ #
  • 09 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko (Santorini): Pure & clean grapefruit & citrus flower goodness, all deftly balanced & screaming for seafood. B #
  • 09 Domaine Sigalas Barrel Assyrtiko (Santorini): Peaches & cream, lemons & flowers, decent & tasty. Still in diapers,w/ a long life ahead B+ #
  • 04 Domaine Sigalas Vinsanto (Santorini): You'll forgive the syrupy-ness for the toffee, honey, orange zest, sultana & general "kick-ass." A- #
  • 09 Argyros Assyrtiko (Santorini): Like a well-written witty movie dialog between Ms. bracing acidity & Mr. oaky mellowness. $20 B+ #
  • 07 Argyros Mavotragano (Santorini): Brambly dark cherry & tough tannic bite make it interesting. Too bad they won't make much of it. $24 B- #
  • 89 Argyros Vinsanto (Santorini): Phenomenal. Brandy, toffee, caramel, roasted nuts, sultana & espresso that you could sniff for days $100 A- #
  • 09 Koutsoyannopolous Assyrtiko (Santorini): Good acidity doesn't make up for subdued fruit & a boozy edge. Oh, what might have been. C #
  • 07 Koutsoyannopolous Abellones (Santorini): Red blend that delives berry cobbler, a nice mouthfeel & (alas) artificial cherry action. B- #
  • 06 Koutsoyannopolous Vinsanto (Santorini): The caramel is achingly sweet, but raisin, prune & toffee await the brave of teeth. B+ #
  • 09 San..Torini Winery Assyrtiko (Santorini): Crisp & approachably "international" in style. Only serious citrus lovers need apply. $22 B #
  • 08 San..Torini Winery Nykteri (Santorini): Assyrtiko that's seen barrel for nutty richness, somewhat at the expense of better balance. B- #
  • 05 San..Torini Winery Vinsanto (Santorini): Vicsous & lucious, with a superb mouthfeel that makes up for wily V.A. peeking out its head. B+ #
  • 07 Canava Roussos Nykteri (Santorini): Apparently they wanted to kill their lemony Assyrtiko with booze and oak, and they almost succeeded C #
  • 04 Canava Roussos Caldera (Santorini): Deep dark & spicy red fruits that honor its island home's deep, dark & hot volcanic namesake. B+ #
  • 99 Canava Roussos Vinsanto (Santorini): You just might mistake it for a sweet PX; a really, really, really damn good sweet PX, that is. A- #
  • 02 Canava Roussos Mavrathino (Santorini): You might not think that liquid fig pudding is a very good thing. In this case, you'd be wrong. B+ #

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Through The Electric Grapevine: The Les Claypool Interview

Vinted on July 8, 2010 binned in best of, interviews

I have, quite clearly, met my match when it comes to quirky wine interviews.

His name is Les Claypool, and he’s probably most famous for fronting the talented and popular hard rock band Primus (who are on tour this Summer).

As a (wannabe) bassist (going on 20 years) myself, I’ve often found Les’ music and technical proficiency inspiring.  I recall being an undergrad in university and hearing Primus’ live album Suck On This! for the first time; “this kicks ass,” I thought, “but I doubt anybody but bass geeks like me would get into this stuff.”  Thankfully for millions of music fans everywhere, my prediction was very, very wrong.  Primus went on to release two Platinum and one Gold album, achieving impressive chart success with their singles and wildly eccentric videos.

What many people might not know about Les is that he’s also been a filmmaker, as well as the driving force behind multiple successful and stylistically diverse rock bands such as Oysterhead and Flying Flog Brigade. He has, somehow, also managed to find time to create a wine brand – Claypool Cellars, which produces a promising and very enjoyable Russian River Pinot Noir (“Purple Pachyderm”) with help from Shad Chappell at Vinify Wine Services.  Les’ description of the `07 Pinot:

“We’ve ended up with a California Pinot with a fairly low alcohol content (13.9%), strong color, and good extraction that gives complexity without being overly “jammy.” Coupled with a moderate amount of French oak and some whole cluster fermentation, we have a vino that sits silky in the mouth with a finish that glides away with elegant authority.”

`08 was a bit of a different story, as heat in the RRV made trying to render a low alcohol Pinot much more challenging.  I tried samples of two bottlings of the 2008 Claypool Cellars Purple Pachyderm: one a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir (307 cases, about $42), the other an RRV Pinot from Hurst Vineyard (110 cases).  Both are big and expressive, just like Les’ music; while some might shy away from the boozy palate on both of these wines (each is around 14.4% abv), few would deny that the red berry fruit on the nose packs a substantial amount of depth and intensity while deftly avoiding the dreaded “jar of red jam” territory, despite the heat.

I managed to catch up with Les via email during a break in Primus’ current tour, to talk shop on the wine front. I still count Suck On This! and Tales From The Punchbowl among my favorite albums – and after 20 years of bass playing, still have trouble copping Les’ intricate, driving and chord-driven bass lines (though I’m making good progress on “Southbound Pachyderm”…) – so this interview was a particularly fun and inspiring one for me.  I think you’ll find it fun as well, especially after witnessing how effortlessly and eloquently Les one-ups me in the quirkiness department.

Enjoy!…

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