Posts Filed Under on the road
As of last week, the results of the 2013 California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition have been fully revealed, and July 4th seemed an auspicious time to recap the (all American) Best of Show winners from the comp. (itself a bit of an American institution, having been established in the 1800s), and share my thoughts on my fave wine of the competition from the judge’s seat.
And now that I’ve completed my tour of the International wine judging circuit for 2013 (having lent my palate to the 2013 Argentina Wine Awards, the 2013 Wines of Portugal Challenge, the 2013 CA State Fair Commercial Wine Competition and the 2013 Critics Challenge), this also seems like a good opportunity to confirm or bust up several wine competition myths, since wine comps. in general are once again under attack in the media as “junk science” (can anyone, anywhere, name one single soul who has ever proffered wine competition judging as an actual scientific endeavor? Because I’d like to be first in line to kick that person in the gluteus max).
First, let’s tackle the wine comp. myths, because that will go a long way in explaining why some of the wines that won Best of Show in the newly-revamped CA State Fair comp. (now headed up by my friends and long-time wine writers Mike Dunne and Rick Kushman, both of whom have done yeomen’s work in bringing new levels of both fun and professionalism to the event)…
Warning… 1800+ word screed ahead… you have been warned!…
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A quick hit today to let you know that my take on the state of Pennsylvania wine (yes, we do make wine here in the land of scrapple) is now published over at PalatePress.com. If you’re curious as to why and how an apparently paradoxical wine market can exist in which small producers struggle both to keep their very grapes alive every year and to vie for critical recognition, and yet also can practically sell out every vintage, then go on over to Palate Press and read all about it.
The publishing of that article (which was about a year in the making) comes at an interesting time, when the Pennsylvania congress is in heated battle to progress legislation that would finally repeal Prohibition largely do away with its current state-run monopoly on liquor sales and distribution and thus make PA marginally less of a laughing stock among wine lovers in the U.S.
It’s been interesting to watch who has jockeyed for which special interests during the PA privatization fall-out. The unions associated with the PA Liquor Control Board particularly have had their haunches up, since any changes would either mean that they’d be losing jobs, or having to compete in more of an open market (in which case, they will almost certainly also end up losing jobs, since, as most people shopping for wine in PA would likely tell you, there’s no way in hell they’d be able to compete against providers that actually supply good customer service and actually close locations that don’t make a profit).
This quote, recently reported after the near-all-nighter that the PA congress held in moving the current privatization bill forward, in so far as it sums up the hard-line stances being taken in the debate, is one of my faves; primarily because it flies so dramatically in the face of common sense for anyone who has spent more than six minutes shopping for wine in a control state:
“The current system works. It works very well. It adds new dollars to the state’s economy. It grows every year,” Sen. Vincent Hughes, D-Philadelphia, said. “This was the opposite direction … wrong bill, wrong idea, wrong direction.”
Uhm… Mr. Hughes, it also totally sucks donkey bong, is blatantly anti-consumer, and doesn’t actually deliver on any of its claims of increasing safety. But that’s okay, because it makes us money, right? Talk about a “wrong idea.” Long-time 1WD readers know that I basically got too “hoarse” screaming about the PLCB here in the past, and so I will spare you the shouting today (if you’re interested in some PLCB ranting, take a look back through the archives).
There’s still a loooong way to go to get to successful liquor privatization, as the recent but I’ve finally acquiesced to accepting baby-steps-style progress, which in this case is arguably better than living in the wine sales dark ages. PA’s privatization might indeed be delayed, but momentum is a powerful thing in politics…
Back in 2011, I wondered (aloud, in Internet terms) if Paso Robles wines were too boozy hot.
Now, after attending (as a media guest) the 2013 Paso Robles Cab Collective’s CABs of Distinction tasting events, I’m wondering if they’re a bit too oaky. But I’m also now wondering when Paso wines will start being hailed as where smart wine geeks go to get compelling, age-worthy reds for half the price of Napa and (in some cases) Sonoma.
After backing off the push on Rhone Valley varieties a bit, and focusing on the soft tannins and consistent lush ripeness of their Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso as a region is now seeing an influx of both winemaking talent and the money needed to push for both quality and recognition. All of which means that Paso is going to be nipping with extreme prejudice at the heels of its better known Northern California winemaking neighbors.
There are many ways that this tale could be told, but I want to focus on the winemaker panel discussion that took place during the 2013 CABs (Cabernet And Bordeaux) of Distinction event, moderated by my friend Steve Heimoff, held at Windfall Farms (because that’s the part you wouldn’t have had access to, my previous feature on Paso centered on a similar winemakers panel and that just felt like too much serendipity to ignore, and finally because I am way too lazy to write short tasting notes on dozens of wines tasted later at the Grand Tasting portion of the event… sorry, okay?). The title, aptly, was “Paso Robles Cab, Its History and Future.”
The bottom line, the recurring theme, the battle cry I heard from the Paso Robles reds at the moment is this: while they lack the complexity of Northern CA’s finest, they have already achieved some of the ripeness, silkiness and aging potential. Watch out, peeps Paso Cab is now well on its way (or as Steve put in when introducing the winemaking panel: “this past year has been the tipping point in my thinking of Paso Robles wine”)…
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Last month, I was one of the International judges in the 2013 Wines of Portugal Challenge, an annual event that was recently opened up to include wine-type-folks from outside of Portugal in the judging pool.
The results of that competition have just been published, and as their guest (okay, okay, and to make up a bit for hammering them about our butt-numbing trip to the Dão), I thought I’d share the results of the competition with you. Only, it will be 1WD style, so prepare for the opinionated and somewhat freakish.
I’m happy to report that the competition was both fun and well-run, apart from having to reuse stemware (and the tendency of some of my amiable panel-mates to fall into native Portuguese when discussing the results of each wine, which meant that in some cases I only understood that they were arguing – or agreeing – about a wine’s relative merits). I’m not so happy to report that the Portuguese still seem hell-bent on pushing Touriga Nacional as their flagship red wine grape, despite the fairly well-accepted notions that a) the TN wines, while potentially excellent and long-lived, are acquired tastes and are largely inferior to their blended counterparts, and b) Dão and Douro are a lot easier to pronounce for most English-speakers. Just sayin’.
Since many of you have no visibility into how these competitions work, I should share that no two wine competitions are run identically (at least not in my growing experience with them), and in this case our panel consisted of a couple of international judges (duh), and mostly folks from the Portuguese wine industry (Port, Madeira, etc.), headed up by a Portuguese winemaker as our panel chief (charged with keeping us all in line).
We tasted all of the wines blind, and then inputted our opinions electronically into a PC via drop-down boxes for various categories of evaluation (one of which, confusingly, was typicity, even though we tasted blind and weren’t told what we were evaluating). The drop-down choices translated in the system as numeric scores, which then translated into a medal (gold, silver, bronze, or no award).
I hated this system…
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